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Monday, October 3, 2011

What is Garments Technology?


Selection of Fabrics:- Select appropriate fabric for different styles and types of garments according to latest trends and estimate
DesigningTechniques: - Design, grounding of specification sheets, draft, prepare patterns and grade (into different size, for various types of garments (manually as
well as with the use of computers)

Layout Planning: Marker making, fabric lay planning, spreading, cutting tools and
techniques and estimation of fabric consumption.

Fabrication:- Fabricate various machinery of garments made to calculate and
mass production for a variety of types of women and men's wear,
kids wear and special types.

Management skills:- Plan schedule, control, supervise and manage the production of different types of garments on the shop floor.

Automation:- Ability to operate and maintain garment industrialized machines and tools.

Quality Management:- Undertake quality control and inspection of various types of-fabrics
and garments as per customers specifications.

Control Measures :- Undertake finishing, packaging and presentation of garments.

Entrepreneurship Training :- Setting-up an entrepreneurial unit.

Personality Development:- Knowledge of interpersonal relations and skills in communication.

Understanding of Market:- Knowledge of marketing and retail management.

Computerization:- Use of computers in the field of Garment Technology.

Costing:-  thoughtful of estimation, costing and price of garments with
cost saving and cost control techniques.

Monday, September 12, 2011

Type of Washing of various fabric items./Blanket wash/Mock up.


A. Types of washing: There are various type of washing we do as per  Buyer requirement in  washing plant.
 Here given some---
# Normal wash
# Enzyme wash
# Stone with enzyme
# Sand blast
# Bleach wash


                                                                                                          stone washing mashine                                                                                 




B. Blanket wash/ mock- up. Wash approval/ effect/ grinding approval---
At first  cut swatch (6’’ x 6’’ ) size 3 pcs from middle of each roll (same shade) to make blanket. Blanket is 6’’ x 6’’=36 pcs (s/b sewing each other) 1 blanket in same color. Blanket wash as per washing requirement which provide by buyer in PDM. To see the shade variation need to make the blanket.
To see the wash effect & to approve make the mock-up in size. Mock –up wash as per washing requirement & after washed send to buyer for approval before start the bulk in sample stage. Mock –up must be in actual fabric/ Item & correct washing requirement. After washed mock-up / sample washing plant provide the washing recipe to sales. Recipe will be hang by laminating with the keeping sample or mock- up. That recipe s/b record for bulk stage. 

What is Metal Detection & Why Metal Detection are Requires.


A. What is metal detection & why metal detection is require ?
Metal detection is detect/find out any metallic things from gmt’s by machine. There are two kind’s of metal detection conveyor &hand held.
Metal detection is most important safety issue. To ensure no have any kinds of metallic things like broken ndl, pin etc in gmt’s, to ensure gmts are nickel free, ferrous free need the metal detection.
If have any kinds of metal in gmts it can effect ton body.

B. Keeping record & handling metal detected gmts: Keep the all record in nreport format (100% gmts metal detection report, Daily summary report, Machine calibration test report) &log book maintaining for metal. Metal free gmts goes to pack & non free gmts (containing metal) if found metal in gmts try to repair & after repair it will be re inspect for ensuring. Non repairable gmts goes to stock (non shippable)with report.

C. Kinds products safety /japan orders obligation/ other request if any: All kinds & Japan order must be 100% metal check & metal free.
All accessories/ components must check by metal detecting machine before attaching with gmts. Down, padding gmts check in small parts by metal detecting machine before attaching whole gmts. If have any buyer requirements all the orders (all time) try do the 100% metal detection.

D. Torque & tension testing/ calibration checking---
Calibrate the conveyor machine by calibration standard card 1.00mm in 3 steps.
First check step: Calibration card should top of the calibration card box. Need to check in 3 point of machine like 2 sides & center.
Second check step-: Calibration card should side of the calibration card box. Need to check in 3 point of machine like 2 sides & center.
Third check step: Calibration card should down of the calibration card box. Need to check in 3 point of machine like 2 side & center.
Also need to check the function of machine indicators/ speed/ levels.( Follow the buyer or factory standard).


E. Certification of metal detection:-Factory & accessories supplier ensure the 100% metal detection as required & give the report/ certificate weather goods are metal free.


What is the pre-shipment inspection ? .How it comply in to the packed gmts?. Who will conduct pre-shipments inspection and what is the necessity of it ?


A. Pre shipment inspection is factory internal audit on complete gmt’s. It’s doing before submit to final inspection to final auditor. Pre- shipment auditor only submit the passed good’s with passed report. If pre shipment auditor’s audit is fail, factory conduct the reinsertion. After passed in pre-shipment submit for final inspection.
Pre- shipment inspection reduce the fail/ rejection qty. in final stage. If pre-shipment auditor failed the P.O. factory re check the gmt’s. So that reduce the rejection on that p.o. before submit to final audit.
Factory internal inspection conducts the pre-shipment inspection . Factory conducts the pre shipment inspection in AQL 1.5.     

Overall Functions And Activities Of Lab.


. Various lab tests based on fabric & accessories: There are various lab test we do as per buyer requirement. Here given some bellow-----
Coated/ Non coated fabrics------
# Composition test- Identify the content like percent of nylon/ polyester/ cotton etc.
# Colorfastness—To washing, T water. To dry heat dye sublimation, To storage, To crocking.
# Appearance after wash
# Seam breaking strength


# Tear test
# water repellent
# Color shading/ shade variation
# Dimensional stability (shrinkage properly of fabric from priginal fabric/ gmt’s,
# Phenolic yellowing.
Accessories:
# Pull test for button, Eyelet, Rivet.
# Color fastness (to fabric)
# Storage test.
Print/ Embroidery---
# Color fastness- to washing, water, heat sublimation, storage.
# Storage test
# Twist balance ( Twisting tendency of thread)
Down / Padding-----
# Fill power test ( Fluffy resistance of down fiber )
# Content test ( as per class of fiber )
# Weight  test
# Thickness of comparison padding
# Warmth retaining (heat resistance capacity of padding).
C. Negative cases handle---
If any negative cases regarding test issue means if found lab test result’s (any fabric/ accessories/ complete gmts) is failed then communicate with  merchandiser as well as Qa side by  sales team & need to inform all concern person of factory about failed issue on time.

MAINTENANCE


A+B. General concept on machine, it’s  component’s/ part’s & uses: There are several kind’s of machine using in production line. Some details are given bellow:
** Single needle machine:
1.500 machine (ndl feet machine) in 500 machine specially is ndl bar & feed dock move in at a time.
 2. 600 machine: in 600 machine move only feed dock, ndl bar is constant ( not move with ndl bar).
**2 needle machine:
1. Lock stc 2ndl machine – plain 2ndl, left &right 2ndl.
2. Chine stc 2ndl machine.
 ** Over lock machine:
1.     3 Thread over lock – in 3 thread over lock  have 1 ndl.
2.     4 Thread over lock – in 4 thread over lock have 2 ndl & 2 knives (upper & lower) there are no bobbin, have only lopper.
** Inter lock machine: 5 Thread used. Have the chain stc. 2 knives (upper & lower) , no bobbin only lopper used.
** Flat lock machine: 5 Thread, 2 or 3 ndl  are used, both sides chain stc & middle stc is lock stc. No usrd bobbin only lopper as over lock & inter lock machine.
** Button hole machine: For flat hole only.
** Button attach machine: For eye hole making for button insert.
** Cycle machine: Used for Velcro, label easy attaching by edge stc.
** Pattern forma machine: Used for placket making.
** Zig- zug machine: To make zig-zug stc.
** Q Q hole machine: For QQ hole key making.
** Feed of the arm: For 2/3 ndl used to make easy side seam or in seam.
** Kansai machine: Lower stc is  chain to use for waist band.
##  Some important part’s & uses:  ** Tension post: To adjust the machine tension.
** Tack up spring: To control the  thread coming smoothly at ndl point.
** Pressure feet: To press the fabric when sewing is running.
** Feed dock: To advance the fabric at front when  sewing is running.
** Pressure adjuster : To adjust  the pressure of pressure feet.
** Regulator: To set up & control the stc repetition.
** Bobbin winder: To rewind the bobbin by thread.
** Back stc leaver: To create the back stc.
** Needle bar: To hold the needle.
C. Type of stitching: Single ndl, 2ndl, over lock, inter lock, flat lock, chain stc, etc.
D. Sewing problem’s: Thread cutting , bad tension, puckering, etc.
E. Safety tools: Tack up leaver, finger safety guide, machine fully cover,  motor fully cover, eye safety glass.

Type Of Down. Down Cluster/ fiber. Construction of down model.What is the use of Tyvek, baffle in the gmts.

Down: mixer of three kind’s of raw materials like---
1. Feather.
2. Fiber
3. Cluster make or called down.
A. Type of down & color of down: There are two kind’s of down using such as--- 1. Goose down.
                            2. Duck down.
There are two type of down color
1.     White down
2.     Grey down.
B. Using of tyvek,  baffle in gmt’s: Tyvek, baffle uses in the gmt’s  to avoid the down migration & see through. For japan order baffle use also for dark color.
C. Necessary of down pillow & it’s preparation : To do the fill power test & down migration test make the down pillow.
Preparation:  As per construction & required like shell + baffle + down + baffle + lining sewing the edges all  together & that’s called down pillow. Pillow’s measurement is 12’’x 12’’. Also  as per construction do the quilting through the pillow.
D. Weight measurement: First without down take the fabric panel’s weight, second fill-up this panel by as per required weight of down then again take the weight. Then minus the weight from second weight to first weight. So found the real down weight.
Down weight +1gram & -1 gram within acceptable ranges.
** Fill power: Feather & cluster ratio means fill power.
Metal detection: For kid’s item & Japan order  Youngone do the metal inspection 100% by panel wise & complete garment’s.