Fabric Inspection system & Defect counting:

QA follow internationally accepted 4-points numerical grading system for fabric inspection. Defect ranges in 1 Linear yard 0 ~ 3’’=1 point, 3~6”=2 points, 6~9”=3 points & 9” to over=4 points. Maximum penalty point per 1 yard is 4 points. & 100 linear yards are 25 points. To calculate points for final disposition-

Point per 100 Linear = Total point ÷ Length of Inspection Roll  x  100

(e;g = 18 ÷ 78 x 100= 23.07 pt)

e) Identified the trim’s color, size, content & uses as tack pack/Bom.

f) Shade separation:  (i) At first sales provide the buyer approved color standard, shipping swatches to QA from fabric vendor against each dye lot.

(ii) QA make A4 size swatch from middle of each roll. (iii) QA compare the swatch with Std & shipping swatch as well as make group according to shade in Light Box under light source D65 & attach all roll’s swatches in “shade continuity card” along with separate card with 3”x4” sizes swatches from each group. Sending severe shade variation to lab for spectrophotometer reading. YO STD is DE # 0 ~ 1 for roll to roll shade & DE # 0 ~ 0.6 within roll. (iv) QA inform to sales al well as buyer to confirmation/replacement for failed shade fabric. Sales make plan for cutting various shade as PO/Country/Carton wise after getting QA prescribed with QA advice.

Color Shading: Color shading means different color shade between two spaces/position on fabric/gmts. There are two kinds of color shading –i) Side-Center shading & ii) Running shading. Mainly causes of shading is dyeing problems.

How to Check shading: i) Side-Center shading- To check side-center shading from every rolls need to cut about 12” full width by folding side-center-side & sewing to see easily.  ii) Running shading: To check running shading every inspected roll must be laying over table by folding every 2/3 yards distance & compare visually.

For shading check we do 3 category  - A : Proceed for cutting, B: For use on condition C: Not for use, C-grade treated as fail with RED tag.

How to Handle shading: A-grade- Proceed for cutting with normal marker. B-grade: Proceed for trial cutting on condition as suitable marker (Reduce marker / 100% shading marker) discuss with sales, qa, production concern persons. After made the gmts findings results are ok then proceed for full cutting.  C-grade: Not for use. To use this grade, it must be approved with sufficient documents (Buyer confirmation, higher management approval).

g) Wash models procedure: Blanket making - At first cut 6”x6” sizes fabric from middle of fabric from each roll. Like this pcs will make 36 pcs & sewing all pcs by pcs, and it called Blanket. 1 blanket in same color. Usally make 3 blanket, 2pcs send to washing plant  for washing (to see washing effect) as per requirement. After washed QA make group shade according to shade and attach all roll’s swatches in shade continuity card with separate card 3”x4”swatches from each group like A, B, C.

Shrinkage Test: For shrinkage test first take ½ yard fabric. Then sewing all around of fabric & take measurement length & wide wise and keep record (before wash). Then send to washing plant for wash as per requirement. After washed take again measurement and compare with before wash measurement & calculate the shrinkage percentage length and wide wise. This percentage add at pattern.

h) Uses of Tag:

i) Pass: If no buyer specific requirements, 0~25 pts per100 Linear yards is considered as pass to cutting. There are no Tag uses.

ii) Yellow Tag: Defects are over 25pts per 100 Linear yards but can be possible to use with short replacement then individual roll should be mark by Yellow Tag. All report should keep with tag. Yellow Tagged roll should hold until decision from authorized person of QA/Sales to use & roll can’t be mix with passed or non-inspected fabrics lots.

iii) Red Tag: Defects are over than 25pts per 100 Linear yards & any roll of the consignment can be non-useable by the visual evaluation or Lab reading that is treated Fail with Red-Tag. All red tag rolls should keep with clear identification & maintain Log Book. To use Red Tag rolls, it must be approved by sufficient documents (buyer confirmation/Higher management approval).